Ortler (Ortles) North Face Climbing

Enter the First Constriction on the route directly above. From here, continue straight up, making sure not to climb in one of the (up to) 2 meter deep avalanche tracks that line the large gully for the next 400 meters.

This section of the climb is long, but moderate in angle, starting at 50 degrees and steepening to 55 degrees by the time you reach the Second Constriction. 

At the Second Constriction, either climb through quickly unroped or build a belay on the right side of the constriction below a rock buttress for some protection. For our climb, it required a 60 meter pitch with 70 degree ice climbing to fully pass the feature. 

Above the Second Constriction the route has several options and is apparently quite changeable year to year. It's possible to wend your way through them, taking the straightest line possible, while avoiding the steepest parts of the seracs. This option gave many 60 degree slopes, and 2-3 pitches of 70 degree ice, roughly grade Alpine Ice 3 (AI3).

You can also climb the upper face on the left side of seracs or harder and steeper on the right side.

CLIMBING GUIDE (Czech language): Ortler, pořád přímo nahoru

Descend the normal route from the summit to the Payer Hut. You'll need a map and compass to descend the right way. The key is to get off a large flat area (called the Ortlerplatte) by going due north.

Climbing gear

Two ice tools, crampons, 4-5 ice screws, 50-60 m rope. In winter or spring, skis or snowshoes may be helpful for descent. Warm clothing! Sleeping bag (?), bivuac bag, lamp, helmet (!), harness...

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