Dolomiti di Brenta: Videsott (Cima Margherita)

Orientation in the Dolomites, and particularly in the Brenta region, it is not easy. In the area of the pillars, corridors, walls and shelves is not easy to find the right direction.

Three climbing teams headed south-south-west face of Cima Margherita. All wandered. One desperately dodging rocks, second clawed the rockwall and third continued to traverse, instead of rising straight up the rock wall. We all finally got to the top somehow.

Renzo Videsott

Via Videsott is named after Renzo Viddesott who climbed it in 1926. It was his first big climb. He later teamed up with Domenico Rudatisem and climbed together several extreme paths in the Dolomites and the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Their masterpiece was the northern wall Civetta 1929. Renzo Videsott later became director of the Gran Paradiso National Park and died in 1974.

Difficulty climbing

One pitch 5 - (or 4 + A0). Most climbs are 3-4 UIAA. Wall height is 280 meters, but the path length is almost doubled. Usually, climbing eight to ten cable lengths. Time is in about three hours. Self protection is necessary.

Route

1st Crack in the first part of the wall (3-, 40 m).

2nd to 3rd Convenient shelf to the left changes in dihedral (3, 120 m).

4th Horizontal traverse left under the perpendicular wall, climb slightly to the right (4, 15 m).

5th Traverse left and then right back holds a small (5- or 4+A0, 45 m). Beware of choosing the right direction! Everywhere around are delusional anchors and pitons.

6th Edge (3+, 40 m).

7th Crack-chimney (3, 30 m).

8th The dark side to the top (4-, 30 m).