Climbing World Cup: Jain Kim Takes Combined Overall Victory
A year after undergoing knee surgery, the Korean lead climbing World Champion is tackling the World Cup Final this weekend. How she’s going to face her rival Mina Markovic in Slovenia?
Reigning World Champion and three-time Overall Champion, 27-year old Kim is in second position ahead of the Kranj IFSC final, having won three World Cups this season. But so has her Slovenian rival Markovic, who’s currently ranked first.
Markovic, who hasn’t won the World Cup since 2012, has a history of doing very well in front of her home crowd. Kim will have to climb her absolute best this weekend to defend her title, but says she’s focusing on enjoying her climbing.
World Cup 2015 Climbing Combined
Lead + speed + bouldering
Men
1. Adam Ondra (CZE) 674
2. Sean McColl (CAN) 486
3. Domen Skofic (SLO) 407
4. Jakob Schubert (AUT) 405
5. Jan Hojer (GER) 295
Women
1. Jain Kim (KOR) 432
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) 421
3. Yuka Kobayashi (JPN) 286
4. Risa Ota (JPN) 215
5. Aya Onoe (JPN) 212
Kliknutím otevřete velký snímek: Jain Kim v Imst.
Foto: Elias Holzknecht - Red Bull Content Pool
World Cup 2015 Climbing Lead
Men
1. Adam Ondra (CZE) 458
2. Gautier Supper (FRA) 400
3. Jakob Schubert (AUT) 396
4. Domen Skofic (SLO) 376
5. Romain Desgranges (FRA) 354
Women
1. Mina Markovic (SLO) 527
2. Jain Kim (KOR) 461
3. Jessica Pilz (AUT) 435
4. Anak Verhoeven (BEL) 381
5. Héléne Janicot (FRA) 298
INFO: IFSC Climbing
About the knee surgery she underwent a year ago to heal an injury
Even though it wasn’t easy to rehabilitate after this knee surgery, I’m very satisfied with the result. My knee is in a perfectly stable condition and I have no discomfort at all. I will focus more on leg training in the off-season to improve my leg strength, aiming to participate in bouldering in the next season.
About her training routine
I train five days a week. Usually my training is focused on climbing skills during season for conditioning. In the off-season, I’m trying to reinforce muscular strength and power. In addition, swimming, cycling, and working on correcting weak muscles are part of my routine in the off-season.
About her routine in the last days leading to the World Cup Final
Nothing special. I'll try to enjoy qualification and semifinals and to be positive.
About her balance of rock climbing and indoor climbing training
My focus is set on indoor climbing during the season. But I really like to go rock climbing outdoors because it is a fresh change for me. I think that rock climbing is very helpful to learn delicate movements.
About the close rally with Markovic for the 2015 overall title
Many people think Mina Markovic and I are rivals. She is a great climber, however I just want to focus on myself and on the route in front of me. I want to enjoy my climbing.Many people think Mina Markovic and I are rivals. She is a great climber, however I just want to focus on myself and on the route in front of me. I want to enjoy my climbing.
About the specificities of this World Cup Final
I feel somewhat nervous about the route at the World Cup in Slovenia. Since the wall isn’t very high, all single moves are very tricky. But I will maintain a good condition and try to reach the top. I hope they have a different soundtrack for me than the “PSY's Gangnam Style” they played when I was climbing this year!
About her motivations, having won several world titles and countless medals already
When I look back, I sometimes cannot believe what I’ve achieved: number one in the World Ranking, gold medal at the World Championship, ... But all these good results come from the fact that I’m enjoying my situation and doing my best; they don’t come from me worrying about the result. I want to keep this mindset now and always.
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